Saturday, August 21, 2004

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Second grade, Valentine´s Day.

Everyone was passing around valentines and I started opening mine. There was one envelope on my desk that just said "Jed" but didn´t say who it was from. I opened it and read:

Roses are red,
Violets are blue,
I pity the girl
who marries you

...Look, I´m not sure what this has to do with Guatemala or my life here in Todos Santos, but it´s been weighing me down for a few years now. Pretty sophisticated insult for an eight year old, I have to say.

The things I write are here: a small collection of stories to try to figure out what being here is like. And to try to explain that to you. So you can try to understand. So my life here doesn´t feel so distant.

Click the blue names on the top right right to check out the stories. But only if you feel like it. And check back every once in a while: I´ll try to add more stories as things happen.

details

A few details to make my life more real to you:

-my bed sheet is covered in tiny red dots. my blood. testiment to the flea bites I´ve gotten every night for the past few months.

-the school (my house) has little animals I call mice because i don´t want to admit that they are actually rats. Sometimes I open the door to my windowless room, turn on the light, and see a rat scurry away along one of the hanging water pipes.

-A group of neighborhood kids who live around the corner has taken to calling me "Chuck Norris". They see a white dude with a beard and must think of the only other white dude with a beard they know. The smallest one, little Heather ( or "Hedder" as they say here) can´t be more than 3 years old. She sees me from 50 feet and without fail screams "CHUCK NORRIS! VEN!" Chuck Norris! Come here! This is her favorite game, and when I do come, she runs away laughing like a little maniac.

-And while we´re on the subject I should mention my old host family: the one I lived with for a month before taking over as coordinator. At some point, my host-mother, who has a bizarre sense of humor, decided that my name was no longer Juan, but that I was, in fact, Juanito Malinche. When I asked her what "malinche" means she told me it means "cheap": Great. Cheap Juan. Fantastic name.

A few weeks later I went to a class on Mayan culture, something I set up for the students at my school. It came up in the class that "Malinche" not only means "cheap": it also refers to an indigenous woman who sleeps with Spanish conquistadors and is a traitor to her culture. And it gets worse because the whole host-family picked up on the nickname, including little Raquelita, the 2 year old who the family lets run wild in the street. Now everytime I go to buy vegetables in the outdoor market, I hear a tiny voice yelling "JUANITO MALINCHE!" from the top of the street so that all the vendors and people shopping stop to see whats going on.

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